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Stories by Ed Bedford

Ten women founded UCSD’s Cafe Minerva

Woah. Lotta high-powered people here. Clinking glasses, laughing over-loudly at jokes, standing with a canapé in one hand and a glass of bubbly in the other, leaning forward to catch inside talk about other people. …

April 18, 2024
Bravo Cafe & Yogurt: small space, big menu

“I tell you,” insists my friend Tim. “He gives the most. He’s the host with the most! He’s worth the trip!”“Uh, to Spring Valley?” I ask.“Hey! I live in Spring Valley. What’s wrong with Spring …

April 4, 2024
Barrio Food Hub's brave new world

‘Over here!” yells Tim. We’ve split up, trying to find this one eatery. I’m on 26th street, with the naval supply ships at one end shoving their prows over the piers like nosey dogs. Tim’s …

March 29, 2024
Taco Taco Poway still has 99-cent fish tacos

“This is well-known among Powegians,” says my buddy Larry.“‘Powegians’?”“The good burghers of Poway, probably the least-known of all our cities.”“But I hear it’s a city for somewhat fat cats,” I say. “Not somewhere you’d find …

March 14, 2024
South Park’s Big Kitchen offers food, love, and politics

Video:TIN FORK: South Park’s Big Kitchen offers food, love, and politicsJudy the Beauty on Duty throws her head back and laughs. “Tres bien, tres bien!” She says it with a deliberate accent, partly to annoy …

February 29, 2024
The livery pleasures of Pinoy Stew

“Stew,” says Kevin.“Pupusa,” I say.“Stew,” says Diane.“Pupusa,” I say. “Come on! There’s a Salvadoreno joint just around the corner.”“Pinoy stew!” says Kevin. “Used to have it off-base at Subic Bay. PI.”“PI?” says Diane.“Philippine Islands,” I …

February 15, 2024
Sultan Baklava’s Turkish hospitality

Video:TIN FORK: Sultan Baklava's Turkish hospitalityIt’s morning in El Cajon. But it could almost be morning in Istanbul. I’m here sipping Turkish coffee among Turkish folk in a gold-trimmed maroon room in the oldest building …

January 25, 2024
Hong Kong Restaurant: the great walnut shrimp of China

Video:TIN FORK: the uber-cool Chocolat, around the corner at Fifth and University“Please, darling. Not Chinese. Not tonight.”We’re outside the Hong Kong restaurant. The place looks fine to me — but not to the beautiful Diane. …

January 11, 2024
Family House of Pancakes’ Persian quiche — the enduring omelet

Video:TIN FORK: Family House of Pancakes’ Persian quiche — the enduring omeletMan, it seems everybody’s going to Lemon Grove these days (See Ian Anderson’s recent <a href="http://www.sandiegoreader.com/news/2023/dec/12/with-each-location-el-pollo-grill-has-gotten-more-colorful/">El Pollo Grill review</a> from 12/21/23). Me, I’m here …

January 4, 2024
Cafe Encuentra: Ancient sandwiches

I'm looking at this dinner table, all laid out and ready for ten guests: there’s even food in the dishes. Tamales, bread, pozole, buñuelos, other things wrapped in corn husks, olives, nopales, frijoles, sweet corn, …

December 14, 2023
Chuchee’s Frutorteria: Peanuts for peanuts

’Tis already the season. And already, I’ve been eating way too much gunge! Need less fat, more fruit, veggies, nuts, twigs. A fresh taste in my mouth.And yet I’ve got that hungry hollow feeling as …

November 30, 2023
UCSD Food Co-op: a great force for bringing people together

“Sorry, we have none left.”Whu? It’s 1 pm and they’ve run out of lunch already? Maybe they’re out to lunch. And here I had been so looking forward to this Indian curry — for just …

November 16, 2023
The everlasting battle to save Solana Beach bluffs

Solana BeachWhat makes Solana Beach interesting for me is not only the Hispanic history, which infuses the area with words of Spanish origin: Rios, Cedros, and Granados (rivers, cedars, and pomegranate trees), but that the …

November 6, 2023
Julian in the fall: apple pie a la mode

Sometimes, you’re thankful to just sit down somewhere. You don’t care about the food, the cushions, or the view. This is one of those moments. I collapse onto this bench seat among the ancient native …

November 2, 2023
Alleys are San Diego's last frontier

A tour of San Diego alleysJack Whalen hands me a beer. “I’m king of this alley,” Whalen says, then points west. “Down there, the king of that next alley is Tom Sweet. He’s 97.” Whalen …

October 16, 2023
Ye Olde Plank Inn: getting dressed up with a “Scotty Too Hotty”

“Arrogant Bastard!” I say.“Arrogant what?” asks Diane, my newly-minted sweetheart.I look at the bubbling brown elixir that is my AB, then up at Diane’s sparkling chocolate eyes flecked with green, and sigh. “Most beautiful lamps …

October 12, 2023
There are two Sorrento Valleys

Sorrento Valley lacks stickiness It’s among the safest of neighborhoods. A glance at crime statistics shows negligible amounts in Sorrento Valley proper (most months: no murder, no rape, 20 nonresidential burglaries). The place is either …

Pupuseria Silvia: Swell swollen tortillas

Aahh! San Diego pupusas. And I mean San Diego, the Central American beach twenty-six klicks south of San Salvador, capital of El Salvador. ’Twas there I first ate that country’s national food, the pupusa, introduced …

Leftover revival at Los Chilaquiles

The Aztec drums echo through the barrio. Even at this distance, you can hear the dancers’ ankle rattles shaking with each foot stomp. Chicano Park on this Monday night tells you better than anywhere else …

February 23, 2023
Trivial burns at Shakespeare Pub

“We’re eating British tonight, alright?” says Annie in that voice of hers. It’s been a hard day. We’ve been working together. Both beat. She’s my friend. You’d think she was my wife. But hey, she’s …

February 9, 2023
Peutz Valley – the fire did not kill our spirit

Alpine's Secret Valley Here we could raise animals and grow a garden, learn the old arts of canning, butchering, milking, and cheese-making. The '70s provided this back-earth movement, and our few neighbors, like my family, …

January 30, 2023
Fortunate Son: “Working class American-Chinese food”

“Och, dreich. Ye coulda picked a better night, sailor,” says Annie. “It’s chucking it down.” Annie’s my Scottish friend. She’s right about the rain. Says it takes her back to “Caledonia.” That’s the old name …

January 26, 2023
Dancing Yak: Coming back for the yak

I came for yak, the classic mountain meat from the Himalayas. I ended up with tikka masala, the classic Indian dish from, uh, Scotland? But I’m getting ahead of myself. It was the yak that …

January 12, 2023
Hob Nob Hill happy hour: Skrewball Peanut Butter Whiskey with a Mother Earth Nitro Vanilla Cream beer chaser

“Let me get this right,” I say to this fellow Jeff. “You’re offering me a shot of whiskey and a can of beer for $6. Six bucks?” “Yes, sir, that’s it,” says Jeff. He’s the …

December 29, 2022
Tom Shaw and heavenly transport on Imperial Avenue

Apostolic Prayer Temple, house of exaltation I came here, to the Apostolic Prayer Temple, a storefront in between a nightclub and a fish market in Encanto, to see the Rev. Tom Shaw in the Gospel …

December 18, 2022
Salk and pepper

“How to find the Salk Cafe?” replies this kindly professor type to my query. “And you’re walking? Ha! Head west on Gilman Drive. Turn right onto Mandeville Lane. Turn right onto Muir Lane. Turn left …

December 15, 2022
The Rabbit Hole: the sweet kick of the Rabbit Slider Duet with a Black Friday Eppig 6th Anniversary Imperial Schwarzbier

It took me years to realize that Welsh rarebit wasn’t eating about bunnies at all. A little while after I learned the truth, I was up in Oceanside — Mission San Luis Rey — at …

December 1, 2022
Mexico fire comes up canyon to Campo

How they fought 2004 Campo fire After it crested, the fire started "running pretty hard" east along the ridgeline. "We were coming along holding it with engines," Scully says, "and we were actually being very …

November 26, 2022
Addis Restaurant: Ethiopian eats, St. George and Harar beers oiling the works — a lot of fun

Oh yes. THIS is how to start your day. Fire-roasted Arabica coffee beans sending their smoky aroma up my nostrils, right beside a blue pylon of incense smoke. We’re talking coffee beans that have come …

November 17, 2022
Ed Fernandez Birrieria voted by Yelp as the best taco joint in America

“That used to be the beef jerky place,” says Will. He lives around here. “See? It’s in one of the apartments of that building. Weird. Pretty popular, though.” We’re sitting in Will’s ’95 Bronco, in …

November 3, 2022
Charlie’s Family Restaurant: “a wetter omelet is a better omelet.”

He’s waiting as we come in: my window-cleaner friend Tim. His motto is “Your Panes Are My Pleasure.” Cheeriest chappie I know. He gets around, and he’s always steering me to the places near where …

October 20, 2022
SongHak BBQ: Korean comfort food

“Think globally, drink locally,” says this one guy’s T-shirt. And people are sure obeying that law here. Whole long table of mostly guys, back from a sport fishing trip and whooping it up. “That’s one …

October 6, 2022
BVM BBQ Grill Pizzeria: beef brisket in a Charles Dickens factory scene

“Eat hot to cool down,” my aunt used to say. “And drink hot, too.” “What does that mean?” says my neighbor Kevin when I quote her to him on this stinking hot day last week. …

September 22, 2022
Donna Jean Vegan Restaurant: non-pizza, non-pasta dishes — mostly comfort food

Wow. Red peppers in the sunset! They shine scarlet in the late afternoon light. Calabrian chile. The peppers are about the only “real” thing in this vegan meal I’m eating. But the rest of the …

September 8, 2022
Karina’s Ceviche Bar ‘n Tacos: Smart tacos

“Oh no!” This is Diane. New to ’Diego. She has just picked up her gobernador taco, chomped in, and watched a splot of orange taco juice squirt out onto her shirt. Her white shirt. “Tacos!” …

August 25, 2022
Sausage day at Ping Yang Thai Skewer & More

There’s Thai and there’s Thai. You have Thai down south near Malaysia, where we’re talking fish, thick curries, coconuts. Up north, far from the sea, near the mountains of Laos and China, we’ve got freshwater …

August 18, 2022
Morning Glory: breaking fast, and quick in Little Italy

“Nothing demoralizes an aspiring escoffier faster than requiring him to cook eggs over easy.” That’s Anthony Bourdain, quoted on the menu I’m looking at. Happily, I can see that this is not going to be …

August 11, 2022
Crazy for Kajmak at Old World Meat Company

“My grandfather was Archduke Ferdinand,” says Laura casually. “He was assassinated in Sarajevo in 1914.” Whoa. The assassination that started World War One? Her grandfather? Laura and Bosko, her husband, definitely hail from the Serbian …

August 4, 2022
Filipino Grill: Pancit plus

“What time is it?” “Six-thirty in the am.” “Where are we?” “Don’t even look, pappy. We’re in the Philippines. Can’t you smell the food?” I can. Vinegar, fish, BBQ. Ria, my beloved stepkid who’s no …

July 28, 2022
Parc Bistro Brasserie: a brasserie, a bistro, a very French café

The angel Gabriel blasts his golden trumpet high above Fifth Avenue. It glints in the evening sun from the dome of The Abbey, the massive onetime church across the road. “I am worth it,” I …

July 21, 2022
Colima’s Mexican Restaurant: beef, chicken, or... iguana?

Where is everybody? This was last Tuesday, in Oceanside. I was looking for food. Don’t look for food on Tuesday afternoons. So many places are closed. Specially last Tuesday, the day the whole nation fell …

Stout Public House: Stanley Cup Hockey brekky

“We don’t talk a lot, but we do yell a lot,” says Jamie Dambois. Yah, for sure, there’s a lot of shouting at the screens here. Small surprise: this is the last week of the …

Trax Bar & Cafe: rollicking towards Wellington Central

Purple gives way to pink gives way to blue. Dawn is cracking late here in the Southern Hemisphere. We’re at a tiny country railroad station at seven on this winter’s morning, waiting for the train. …

June 30, 2022
Fed Up Restaurant & Takeaway: more paua to you

“New Season First Grade Bluff Oysters! Here we go, mate,” says Russell. “This is the one. This place is da bomb.” We’re sitting beside a small sign: “Fed Up Restaurant & Takeaway,” here in Paraparaumu, …

June 16, 2022
Bare Back Grill: Finding Fergburger

“Just don’t ask me to taste mutton or lamb,” says my neighbor Kevin. “That’s all I ask.” Uh-oh. I have this bee in my bonnet about lamb. And about burgers. I want to see the …

June 9, 2022
Birria Madrigal: gourmet goat “garbage”

Barrio Logan? It’s hopping. A sort of food cluster is forming right around Thorn Brewing’s Barrio Logan factory. They’ve opened a big eatery called ReBru Spirits, where — don’t ask me how — they convert …

Doggos Gus: Imperial Beach’s bacon brat

“So long, Huey.” It’s a biker muttering this. He ain’t old enough to have picked up that Vietnam moniker for the sun, but he says it anyway. Because yes, that last moment’s coming. People have …

May 26, 2022
Dobermans in Earthquake Park

“It was beauty that killed the beast,” reads the sentence etched into the blond bar counter. “If you tell the truth, you don’t have to remember anything.” On and on. Sayings, thoughts, bon mots, the …

May 19, 2022
Abay Ethiopian Market and Restaurant: flavors that marinate in your mouth

“Eee-yew! Spongey!” cries my buddy Tim. “And you have to eat with your fingers? A mess! Why can’t we have a knife and fork like at any other place?” He has just unrolled a section …

May 12, 2022
Coffee shop: Pooh-poohing the poopie suit

It’s a sunny breezy morning. John Man, tall, slightly stooped, plenty of hair for his age, a guy who listens more than he talks, is shooting the breeze at coffee with his buddies. As usual, …

May 11, 2022

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