Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Beereakfast at Craft Kitchen leaves me wanting a morning nap

A steamy, spicy mess

My chilaquiles. Breakfast imbibements in background
My chilaquiles. Breakfast imbibements in background

Hmm. Chilaquiles. Coffee. Beer. Beer.

My Sunday brunch.

Not just me. Guy on my right is downing a pint of “Dank & Sticky IPA,” think he says. Couple on my left is full-chomp into steaks, eggs, sautéed potatoes (his plate), and chicken, waffles, blueberries and strawberries, and gravy (her plate) as they cruise through a bottle of Salmon Creek brut sparkling “champagne” with a kinda milk bottleful of OJ. Mimosas.

This place used to be a 7-11 until two years ago

But this ain’t no glugfest. It’s totally civilized, even up here at the bar. Call it a Spring Valley breakfast. I found it only because this morning, two Sundays ago, I was heading for Campo Road and the Sunrise Deli, when fate stepped in. Rain. Needed shelter. Next to the Helix Pet Hospital, I noticed a new-looking sign. Said “Craft Kitchen.”

Place

Craft Kitchen

4253 Palm Avenue, La Mesa

Also, “Open for breakfast 8 a.m., Sat–Sun.”

So, hey hey! Change of plan. Dry out, wet whistle, eat here.

Now I’m inside this crafty, modern, very cool, crowded room with a kitchen on the right and a long bar stretching to the left. Guess we’re talking gastropub, right? The decor’s beer drinkers’ esthetic: lots of black, white, and scattered blackboards with beers listed.

I sit up to the beautifully varnished plank o’wood that’s the bar. It’s just turned eleven. Bunch of li’l chalkboards stuck on the white tile wall tell you what’s on tap. And they are on tap, all 30 beers. And nearly every one of them is locally brewed.

Sponsored
Sponsored

The other thing I notice is that each beer has three prices. Usually $2, $4, and $7, for 4, 8, and 16 (or 12) ounces. And great names like “Palate Wrecker,” “Dank & Sticky,” “Groundswell Undulation.”

Breakfast’s on from eight till three, Friday to Sunday. Rest of the week, it’s from eleven to one. Menu’s a dozen dishes long. They’re priced from $9-13. The $9 one is “Bee’s Knees,” basically yogurt, granola, strawberries and blueberries, banana, and honey.

Ray and Kristine

Couple on my left, Ray and Kristine (“with a K,” she says), are concentrating on their chicken and waffles and steak and eggs. Steak looks kinda modest, but Ray says it’s plenty. But Kristine’s chicken looks the fun dish. There’s the deep-fried chicken and waffles, and, hey, a coffee gravy. That’s a first.

Neighbor’s bacon-wrapped bratwursts. At $8, pretty good value.

“We paid $15 for the bottle of champagne and OJ for the mimosas,” says Ray. “Not bad when you compare it with, like, Brigantine, where we go sometimes.”

Uh-oh. Here’s the barkeep, Kasey (“that’s with a K”) armed with menus.

It has standard stuff, but with interesting twists. Like, the french toast features “brandy infused with bacon, turkey bacon, or breakfast bratwurst.” Costs $11. You can add strawbs, blueberries, or banana for $3 more.

Farmer’s Plate is eggs, bacon or brat, sautéed spuds, and veggies or fruit and toast. Also $11. Farmer’s Bowl’s a pile of the potatoes, veggies, brat, and eggs on top ($11). Lobster omelet is three eggs, lobster, brie, avo, hollandaise, taters and veggies or fruit. Looks like plenty, but it should be: costs $13.

Kasey

“Which one will fill me the best?” I ask Kasey.

“Our Sunday special, the red chilaquiles breakfast,” he says. “It’s got a lot. And you can add a side of chicken for a buck more.”

Well, chilaquiles is traditionally a morning dish. It costs $10, $11 with the chicken add. I order that. And a coffee ($2, with free refills). And everybody else is doing it, so I get two beers. The smallest, 4 oz. snifter glasses. Benchmark’s Oatmeal Stout ($2), and Green Flash’s Palate Wrecker. That costs $3 because it’s 9.5 percent alcohol. It also rates 149 IBUs (International Bitterness Units).

My chilaquiles arrive. Kasey’s right about the quantity. A mound of corn tortillas has been fried and then a salsa added on top, plus crema. Cotija cheese is scattered all over them, two over-easy eggs and avo slices sit right on top, and a whole bunch of sautéed chicken breast strips fill up one side of the plate. I tip pots of green tomatillo sauce and a hot pink sauce plus chopped onions over everything, break the egg yolks, and make myself a hot, steamy, spicy mess.

Tomatillo sauce and avocado help kick this dish up into tastebud heaven

I didn’t really need the chicken, but it does give heft to the breakfast. The stout tastes porter-ish, I’d say, and is good, but the real surprise is the Palate Wrecker. It’s a great match to the chilaquiles and actually doesn’t taste that bitter. And you’d never know it had such an alcohol punch in it either.

Guy on my right orders two bacon-wrapped bratwursts for $8. Good deal. Come with two mustards, chipotle ketchup, and a cheese fondue side. He also orders Dankness Visible, an IPA from El Cajon’s Burning Beard Brewing ($7 for 16 ounces).

Kristine's chicken, waffle, and fruit dish

Meanwhile, Kristine and Ray and I are talking electricity. Ray’s an electrical engineer. Is designing the electronics for all those new buildings down by Petco Park. Kristine’s into avionics. Like, software for computers that tell pilots what’s happening with their engines, wings, wheels, whatever.

What I like: There’s a generous feeling to this place. The $2 beers, the way-big mugs of coffee you get, the free refills, the amount of food you get on a plate.

“Eight dollar baked mac and cheese,” says the Daily Deals blackboard for Monday. And, wow: that price includes any pint of craft beer. Tuesday’s tacos/beer for $10, Wednesday’s wings/beer ($10), Thursday’s a steak, roasted spuds, grilled corn on the cob, and beer for $15. Friday’s fish ’n’ chips and a pint for $9.

Feel energized as I head out. Just as well. Got that half-mile Spring Street hill climb before I can sneak a morning nap in the trolley.

It’s been quite a beereakfast.

Place

Craft Kitchen

4253 Palm Avenue, La Mesa

Hours: 11:00 a.m.–11p.m., Monday to Thursday; 8 a.m.–11 p.m. Friday, Saturday; 8 a.m.–10:00 p.m., Sunday

Ray's breakfast: steak and eggs

Prices: Breakfast includes french toast with bacon, turkey bacon, or bratwurst, $11 (add fruit for $3); Farmer’s Plate (eggs, bacon or brat, sautéed potatoes, veggies or fruit, $11; Farmer’s Bowl potatoes, veggies, brat, eggs, $11; lobster omelet (three eggs, lobster, brie, avocado, hollandaise, potatoes, veggies or fruit, $13; non-breakfast items include fish and chips ($9), mac ’n’ cheese, $8; Craft burger, $13; SW chicken sandwich, $11; two street tacos, $6

Bus: 855

Nearest Bus Stop: Spring Street and Palm Avenue

Trolley: Orange Line

Nearest trolley stop: Spring Street (1/3 mile walk)

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Pet pig perches in pocket

Escondido doula gets a taste of celebrity
Next Article

Taco Taco Poway still has 99-cent fish tacos

Tacotopia prizewinner is well known among Powegians
My chilaquiles. Breakfast imbibements in background
My chilaquiles. Breakfast imbibements in background

Hmm. Chilaquiles. Coffee. Beer. Beer.

My Sunday brunch.

Not just me. Guy on my right is downing a pint of “Dank & Sticky IPA,” think he says. Couple on my left is full-chomp into steaks, eggs, sautéed potatoes (his plate), and chicken, waffles, blueberries and strawberries, and gravy (her plate) as they cruise through a bottle of Salmon Creek brut sparkling “champagne” with a kinda milk bottleful of OJ. Mimosas.

This place used to be a 7-11 until two years ago

But this ain’t no glugfest. It’s totally civilized, even up here at the bar. Call it a Spring Valley breakfast. I found it only because this morning, two Sundays ago, I was heading for Campo Road and the Sunrise Deli, when fate stepped in. Rain. Needed shelter. Next to the Helix Pet Hospital, I noticed a new-looking sign. Said “Craft Kitchen.”

Place

Craft Kitchen

4253 Palm Avenue, La Mesa

Also, “Open for breakfast 8 a.m., Sat–Sun.”

So, hey hey! Change of plan. Dry out, wet whistle, eat here.

Now I’m inside this crafty, modern, very cool, crowded room with a kitchen on the right and a long bar stretching to the left. Guess we’re talking gastropub, right? The decor’s beer drinkers’ esthetic: lots of black, white, and scattered blackboards with beers listed.

I sit up to the beautifully varnished plank o’wood that’s the bar. It’s just turned eleven. Bunch of li’l chalkboards stuck on the white tile wall tell you what’s on tap. And they are on tap, all 30 beers. And nearly every one of them is locally brewed.

Sponsored
Sponsored

The other thing I notice is that each beer has three prices. Usually $2, $4, and $7, for 4, 8, and 16 (or 12) ounces. And great names like “Palate Wrecker,” “Dank & Sticky,” “Groundswell Undulation.”

Breakfast’s on from eight till three, Friday to Sunday. Rest of the week, it’s from eleven to one. Menu’s a dozen dishes long. They’re priced from $9-13. The $9 one is “Bee’s Knees,” basically yogurt, granola, strawberries and blueberries, banana, and honey.

Ray and Kristine

Couple on my left, Ray and Kristine (“with a K,” she says), are concentrating on their chicken and waffles and steak and eggs. Steak looks kinda modest, but Ray says it’s plenty. But Kristine’s chicken looks the fun dish. There’s the deep-fried chicken and waffles, and, hey, a coffee gravy. That’s a first.

Neighbor’s bacon-wrapped bratwursts. At $8, pretty good value.

“We paid $15 for the bottle of champagne and OJ for the mimosas,” says Ray. “Not bad when you compare it with, like, Brigantine, where we go sometimes.”

Uh-oh. Here’s the barkeep, Kasey (“that’s with a K”) armed with menus.

It has standard stuff, but with interesting twists. Like, the french toast features “brandy infused with bacon, turkey bacon, or breakfast bratwurst.” Costs $11. You can add strawbs, blueberries, or banana for $3 more.

Farmer’s Plate is eggs, bacon or brat, sautéed spuds, and veggies or fruit and toast. Also $11. Farmer’s Bowl’s a pile of the potatoes, veggies, brat, and eggs on top ($11). Lobster omelet is three eggs, lobster, brie, avo, hollandaise, taters and veggies or fruit. Looks like plenty, but it should be: costs $13.

Kasey

“Which one will fill me the best?” I ask Kasey.

“Our Sunday special, the red chilaquiles breakfast,” he says. “It’s got a lot. And you can add a side of chicken for a buck more.”

Well, chilaquiles is traditionally a morning dish. It costs $10, $11 with the chicken add. I order that. And a coffee ($2, with free refills). And everybody else is doing it, so I get two beers. The smallest, 4 oz. snifter glasses. Benchmark’s Oatmeal Stout ($2), and Green Flash’s Palate Wrecker. That costs $3 because it’s 9.5 percent alcohol. It also rates 149 IBUs (International Bitterness Units).

My chilaquiles arrive. Kasey’s right about the quantity. A mound of corn tortillas has been fried and then a salsa added on top, plus crema. Cotija cheese is scattered all over them, two over-easy eggs and avo slices sit right on top, and a whole bunch of sautéed chicken breast strips fill up one side of the plate. I tip pots of green tomatillo sauce and a hot pink sauce plus chopped onions over everything, break the egg yolks, and make myself a hot, steamy, spicy mess.

Tomatillo sauce and avocado help kick this dish up into tastebud heaven

I didn’t really need the chicken, but it does give heft to the breakfast. The stout tastes porter-ish, I’d say, and is good, but the real surprise is the Palate Wrecker. It’s a great match to the chilaquiles and actually doesn’t taste that bitter. And you’d never know it had such an alcohol punch in it either.

Guy on my right orders two bacon-wrapped bratwursts for $8. Good deal. Come with two mustards, chipotle ketchup, and a cheese fondue side. He also orders Dankness Visible, an IPA from El Cajon’s Burning Beard Brewing ($7 for 16 ounces).

Kristine's chicken, waffle, and fruit dish

Meanwhile, Kristine and Ray and I are talking electricity. Ray’s an electrical engineer. Is designing the electronics for all those new buildings down by Petco Park. Kristine’s into avionics. Like, software for computers that tell pilots what’s happening with their engines, wings, wheels, whatever.

What I like: There’s a generous feeling to this place. The $2 beers, the way-big mugs of coffee you get, the free refills, the amount of food you get on a plate.

“Eight dollar baked mac and cheese,” says the Daily Deals blackboard for Monday. And, wow: that price includes any pint of craft beer. Tuesday’s tacos/beer for $10, Wednesday’s wings/beer ($10), Thursday’s a steak, roasted spuds, grilled corn on the cob, and beer for $15. Friday’s fish ’n’ chips and a pint for $9.

Feel energized as I head out. Just as well. Got that half-mile Spring Street hill climb before I can sneak a morning nap in the trolley.

It’s been quite a beereakfast.

Place

Craft Kitchen

4253 Palm Avenue, La Mesa

Hours: 11:00 a.m.–11p.m., Monday to Thursday; 8 a.m.–11 p.m. Friday, Saturday; 8 a.m.–10:00 p.m., Sunday

Ray's breakfast: steak and eggs

Prices: Breakfast includes french toast with bacon, turkey bacon, or bratwurst, $11 (add fruit for $3); Farmer’s Plate (eggs, bacon or brat, sautéed potatoes, veggies or fruit, $11; Farmer’s Bowl potatoes, veggies, brat, eggs, $11; lobster omelet (three eggs, lobster, brie, avocado, hollandaise, potatoes, veggies or fruit, $13; non-breakfast items include fish and chips ($9), mac ’n’ cheese, $8; Craft burger, $13; SW chicken sandwich, $11; two street tacos, $6

Bus: 855

Nearest Bus Stop: Spring Street and Palm Avenue

Trolley: Orange Line

Nearest trolley stop: Spring Street (1/3 mile walk)

Comments
Sponsored
Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

A poem for March by Joseph O’Brien

“March’s Lovely Asymptotes”
Next Article

Oceanside short-term rental guy David Fischbach attracts enemies

Plans 10-bedroom house on South Ocean
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.