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Our last day, we zigzagged up a rocky point along a trail tunneled through lush foliage toward some ruins. Crows eerily cawed along a stone pillar. We spotted half-crumbled ancient doorways and touched smooth rock walls. We paid tribute to the ghosts of our elders and continued up a rocky bluff providing us with a panoramic view of the translucent blue Mediterranean far far below.

Absorbing the view in the silence of the earth, I had another heart-to-heart with myself.

“Kip, you earned this one ole boy.”

During our stay at Bayram’s, I befriended the owner’s nephew who ran the place. He told me he had been working here at Uncle Bayram’s since he was just a kid. When I asked him how much longer he would work there, he replied without hesitation and a sparkle in his eye, “Probably forever.” I could totally see why.

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