Francke named Krug his best bubbly at $99.95, with the '96 Fleury Brut a sleeper at $43.95. Buyer Paris Driggers found it in France, "and he said it held its own with the '96 Dom Perignon, no problem." But what seduced me was the Charles Ellner Rosé Champagne at $27.95, which Francke judged to be a shade better than the Duval-Leroy Rosé. Opened it with the Feuillatte Blanc de Blanc that evening, and was suitably transported by both -- orange blossom and almond in the Feuillatte, Campari and cranberry in the Ellner. People just don't drink enough Champagne. (Note: Wine has a nasty tendency to sell out. If you're interested in buying any of these wines, you may wish to call about availability.)

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