Tom Nickel, the former World Beer Cup-winning brewmaster for Oggi’s, Pizza Port, and Julian Brewing Company, threw open the doors to a new brewery-only project installed in a former jailhouse on the outskirts of the rural, getaway town of Julian, where he lives part-time.

Nickel, has done more to advance the cause of San Diego beer than salted pretzels, as a brewer, pub-owner, and festival organizer. These days, the world’s best small batch brewer of 2004 pours beers at elevation, and its rustic patio makes it easy to appreciate fresh beer and fresh mountain air. The beers are straightforward and sessionable, and the space is equipped with parking for food trucks as well as RVs for thirsty travelers trekking to and from the desert.